Markets, crossings and shrines.

We made yet another friend on the Tokyo rail network this morning - an elderly lady originally from Hokkaido, now living in California (she still visits Japan annually). She gave us barely sufficient time to nod our confirmation that we were heading to Tsukiji Fish Market before directing us to follow her, and setting a pace that forced us into a jog. The apparent one-time Olympic walker gave us the low-down on the area, before weaving her way off into the distance.

We made our way along a street lined with food stalls, normally fastidious Japanese folk crammed onto rough timber benches or even milk crates to sample the meals on offer. Pushing past the crowds of diners, we arrived at the Fish Markets proper - and managed to avoid getting collected by several forklifts hurtling around the place in gleeful abandon of anything resembling Work, Health and Safety. Large, pointy hooks and implements that appeared to be 4 foot long Katana blades (presumably to slice up very large fish) simply added to the welcoming atmosphere.

We made our way back to the food stalls, and came across a stall selling wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets). After we clumsily ordered something for each of the Martin kiddies - the lady behind the counter insisted on taking our photo. Mindful of the weaponry on display just a few aisles back, we were not going to argue.

We called into a Cafe for some morning tea - and experienced some truly disgusting coffee, but really lovely staff. One lady made some origami spinning tops for each of the kids - using three sheets of paper apiece.

Our next stop was Shibuya - which boasts the busiest crossing on the planet. Admittedly, it was fairly busy - but the innate consideration of the Japanese folk meant that I wasn't mowed down whilst taking a few piccies (which is nice).

For a complete change of pace, the Meiji-Jingu (Shrine) was an island of calm - soaring trees, ancient temples, and young blokes in white cloth wraps telling you not to sit on the steps. Tomorrow, we fly out to Hokkaido - leaving the frantic pace of Tokyo behind.