In all our wanderings yesterday, we realised we had neglected to visit the Tainai-meguri - recommended by the Lonely Planet as a 'must do'. The entrance is located in an easily-overlooked shrine, and involves you descending a staircase into total darkness - where you must then guide yourself along by a beaded rope. Essentially, this process is symbolically entering the womb of a female bodhisattva (an enlightened soul). After a while you are entirely disoriented and then notice a large stone sphere (carved with symbols) lit by the faintest glimmer of light from above. You are able to make a wish as you spin it either left or right, and then make your way out into the light - reborn, if you will. It was a very different experience to the usual temple viewing, and the kids loved it. I am thrilled they did not ask what a womb was.
We survived another run of the Three-year hill as well as the Two-year hill (the steps that will result in either 3 or 2 years bad luck should you stumble on them). I would imagine they would be a lousy place for a Pub Crawl.
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| Some shops on the Higashiyama walk - no grumpy shopkeepers apparent along this stretch. |
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| Front yard - Kyoto-style. |
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| Buddhist statue along the Southern Higashiyama walk |
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| Maruyama Park |
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| Yasaka Shrine (on the south end of the Maruyama Park) |
We made a quick stop back at our apartment to load up Joshie with some Panadol (he was starting to feel under the weather), and then caught the 206 Bus to Kyoto Station - our destination was Arashiyama and its famed Bamboo Forest.
Once we arrived, we managed to unintentionally explore most of the township (carrying an out-of-sorts Josh) before Jen decided to ask for directions (clever thing that she is). Inevitably, it was on the other side of the town centre. We weaved our way through the masses, and eventually found the place.
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| One of Jen's goals of the trip - achieved. |
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| If you were a Panda, you'd be salivating right now. |
Leaving the grove of bamboo, we crossed through town and over the Togetsu-kyu Bridge to Arashiyama Monkey Park. Carrying an unwell Josh on my shoulders, I questioned the merits of them locating the observation area at the top of the mountain. It was a humid day, and I grinned through clenched teeth when I noticed this helpful sign:
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| Thanks for that information - now where's the lift? |
Other signs warned against having any food on your person, or looking the monkeys directly in the eyes. Very reassuring. We finally crested the top of the mountain, and noted a caged observation shed. The park officials had cleverly arranged it that the only place people can feed the monkeys is from inside this shed. As a result, the monkeys pretty much ignore you as you approach them, but get very curious about you once you are inside the people-cage. We fed a few monkeys some apple and retained all of our digits (more delicate than some dentists - truth be told).
Lily freaked out (as is her wont) whenever they reasserted the pecking order of the troupe by screeching and baring their teeth at each other. On her way past some of them, one of these choruses of screeches had her cling to me and wail (I kid you not), "Save me from the monkeys!" Jane Goodall she is not.
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| That can't be comfortable. |
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| The bad news is - you're infested with bugs, the good news is - I'm really hungry. |
On the way back down the mountain was a small and fairly dated playground. There was however a small flying fox which the bigger kids took to with gusto.
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| Not quite a vine through the rainforest, but you get the idea. |
We eventually made it back down the cobblestone staircase (my knees and ankles reminding me of the additional 13 kilos I was carrying on my shoulders) - and made our way across the Oi River via the Togetsu-kyu Bridge.
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| Cormorant fishing boats. |
Half-way across, Lily spied some enormous River Rat things (I still have no idea what they are) foraging in the reeds below. Fortunately, they seemed more interested in whatever was in the grass than waylaying some weary tourists.
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| These guys were about the size of an over-fed cat - a big one. |
Josh alternated between Jen's arms and my shoulders on the way back to the JR station, where we took a breather on the way back to Kyoto Station. We sought out some dinner as well as some palatable coffee, then climbed aboard Bus 206 to our apartment.
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| Kyoto Tower - you don't see anyone putting a monkey park on top of this. |
Josh took a turn for the worse once we were on the move, and we quickly jumped off the packed bus to avoid what he terms 'bommiting' over fellow-passengers. Fortunately, we remained bomit-free, but scored a bonus 2 km hike back to our place with a Joshie-backpack.
The little (but surprisingly heavy) munchkin has medicine on board now and is on the mend after an eventful evening. Tomorrow sees us visit Osaka Aquarium, which is touted as one of the best in the world. I don't know - I've been to the Pet Porpoise Pool in Coffs Harbour, so I won't be easy to impress.
