Thursday, October 25, 2012

The Great Cable Car Robbery

This morning was Hamish's birthday, so we gave him a ridiculously loud birthday card we'd picked up in Sapporo, as well as an assortment of cards, emails, texts and previously sent presents from the entire family. We set out with the intention to take the Cable Car (Rope-way) to the top of Mt Hakodate (the view from the top is apparently one of the 'must dos' locally). After a quick detour to take on board some coffee and hot chocolate, we started making our way up the cobble-stoned streets in the Mt Hakodate foothills. We picked our way past a veritable throng of overtly artistic Japanese types (the berets and smocks were not subtle) all perched on footstools dabbing at teeny canvases with an air of focus. The object of their study was the Hakodate Russian Orthodox Church (first constructed in 1859).

Not a beret or smock amongst them.
We made our way over to the Cable Car centre, with Lily cheerfully casting aspersions about my capacity to enjoy heights, when it dawned on me that I had not seen a single car go up during our approach. Sure enough - as we reached the shut ticketing booth, we were able to decipher that the place was essentially 'closed for repairs' during the very week we were in Hokkaido. 

Bugger. 

Staring up at the observation deck, high above on the top of Mt Hakodate - we were approached by one of the workers who indicated that it was essentially an hours walk/climb, but shook his head when he looked at the kids. 

Bugger.

With more than a little despondency, we had a look at a nearby Gokoku Shrine. Joshie made friends with a stone owl, while his parents struggled with their options in light of the woefully-timed Cable Car maintenance.


Joshie's friend doesn't give a hoot.

Red Tori - may look nice, but it can't get you up a mountain.

We eventually bit the bullet and decided to test just how expensive Japanese taxis were (guide books warn of second mortgages being required). There were a couple handily located at the closed Cable Car facility (I smell conspiracy!), both some kind of teeny european make of car from the 60s - that looks cute from the outside, but required me to open the glovebox to fit my knees in. We were about to buckle up, when the silver-toothed driver waved us off doing that. Clearly not mandatory here. He then proceeded to buckle up himself. Nice. As my forehead was essentially pressing against the windscreen already - there was nothing major lost in any event. We wound our way up into the clouds, and I felt whatever he was going to charge would be fair enough. It turned out to be pretty reasonable. The view was amazing (thank goodness). 

The kids had vanilla/mango sundaes in the cafe, able to overlook Hakodate as they did so. I, in turn recovered from embarrassing myself by attempting to phrase-book my way through their order, only to discover the waitress spoke fluent English... 

View to the North from Hakodate Mountain

Upon our descent, we called into one of the Redbrick Warehouse deli's and picked up a spongey, maple cake scroll - and added some Pocky in lieu of birthday candles (that we couldn't find anywhere). A bowl-full of confectionery and a raucous rendition of Happy Birthday appeared to complete the setting for Hamish's birthday (that and the lurid blue wristwatch he picked up with some birthday money yesterday).

Pocky-skewered maple rolls will become all the rage -
trust me.
While Joshie crashed and the older kids retired to their respective electronic devices, Jen ducked out to the JR Station to reserve some seats for tomorrows return trip to Sapporo. I attempted to demonstrate my prowess with the Kendama, but the children were far from impressed (apart from my failed attempts, which they thought were hilarious).

It was around 6pm when we set out to give the Hakodate Beer Factory one more try in terms of a meal. They were open! I ordered some Jingisukan (a dish named after Ghengis Khan's crowd - BBQ mutton), while Jen had some ribs, Birthday Boy had a fried seafood plate, and ever adventurous Lily and Josh had some potato wedges. They also offered a beer sampler, which was pretty nice (my favourite was the Ale). After dinner, we had a wander around the Redbrick Warehouse district again, and came across a veeery early Christmas tree. I'm guessing by the time the real event comes round - the area would be under a few metres of snow.


Tomorrow sees us take the train back to Sapporo and our traditional Ryokan, before flying back to Tokyo. To be honest with you - I am not looking forward to the chance of cold goo for breaky.